DRZ problems list

Discussion in 'Suzuki' started by DR.billZ, Nov 17, 2001.

  1. DR.billZ

    DR.billZ C level Member
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    I have a 2000 DRZ400 with about 2,000 hard woods miles. Here's the problem list so far:
    1) Return throttle cable broke probably the first time I twisted the right grip.
    2) Right intake valve worn out at ~1,400 miles.
    3) case covers crack way too easily.
    4) camchain adjuster breaks with no notice at 12,500ft. as a typical Colorado Summer afternoon storm brews.
    5) zerk fittings either fall off or refuse to allow grease thru them.

    With all that said...... It will take an awful nice bike to replace it in the garage.
     
  2. jim stowers

    jim stowers C level Member

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    I just bought a 2001 drz 400E a few months ago and have about 400 miles on it. I must say it took a few mods to really hit my happy button:#1- removed return throttle cable and reduced return spring tension (before doing this my hand would go numb because of excess throttle resistance)
    #2- added a good quality skidplate
    #3- added 20cc of 10wt fork oil to the forks (allowed me to dial the best compression setting for trail riding plus some light jumping without bottoming severly)
    #4- raised jet needle one notch, turned out fuel idle screw two and a half turns, opened up air box, installed bigger main jet (155 for 5500 ft alt.)
    #5- removed crankcase vent oil canister (for more air flow to rear shock body) and added a crankcase vent filter ( installed inside air filter box)
    #6- put on a set of full wrap around lever guards

    other than doing these mods I've simply changed the oil every 100 to 200 miles and gotten used to the way the drz likes to be ridden. At this point I don't think there is another dirtbike I could enjoy as much. It really is an awesome dirt machine!!

    jimbo
     
  3. wayneo426

    wayneo426 C level Member

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    A little more on top....

    I was able to ride a 2001 DRZ400 kicker over the summer, and I was very impressed. It didnt have the kick in the butt that my 426 had, but felt great, turned VERY well, and had the nicest, most plush front end I have ridden in a loooong time. Maybe ever. Im a big dude, and prefer the 426 engine, but that bike is a lot better than I originally believed. For the woods, its a great ride.
     
  4. DR.billZ

    DR.billZ C level Member
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    wayneo426, I love the forks also. I just wish my last 5 bikes had that fork, especially my XR400 :eek:

    Problems I HAVEN'T had:

    1)2000 miles on the original for seals
    2)2000 miles on the original wheel bearings
    3)Only on it's 3rd set of chain and sprockets(and they are brand new)
    4)original shock oil....OK that's called neglect.
    5)original engine oil....just seeing if you are still reading.
    6)Haven't had to take the shock linkage apart.....hooray!
    7)Kickstarting is a breeze..... BUTTON!
     
  5. Spokes

    Spokes C level Member

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    DRZ

    My DRZ has about 1,500 miles on it. I'm 6'4" Here's my set up:

    1. Answer Pro-Tapers and top clamp. In the forward position.
    2. Guts Racing tall seat cover and tall foam. It still sloped to the rear fender. I had a trim shop add some more foam to the rear of the seat.
    3. Re-Jet. This is a must. I'm running a 48 pilot and 165 main. The snorkle is out of the airbox. Raised the needle 1 position.
    4. A press-on fuel meter adjuster from www.kientech.com.

    I love the bike. When I got it, I thought I would continue to race my 97' KTM 250Exc. But, I enjoyed trail riding this one so much. That I've started racing it with better results. (Most of the races here are tight and rocky. In more open areas, the KTM would do better.)

    Spokes
     
  6. DR.billZ

    DR.billZ C level Member
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    Tell me about this fuel meter.....never heard of it. But I know Jesse makes some pretty good stuff.
     
  7. Spokes

    Spokes C level Member

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    Fuel Meter

    It's a real simple little device Jesse makes. It looks like a very small T-Handle. You have to push it up and press fit it over the fuel meter adjustment. The T-handle part sticks out the bottom of the carb and allows you to reach in and adjust the fuel meter with just your fingers.

    The only down side comes if you have to re-jet the carb. It is difficult to pull it back off, which you must do in order to pull the bottom of the carb off. (I go to Colorado every summer and must re-jet.)

    There is a picture of it on Jesse's web site.

    I hope this helps

    Spokes
     
  8. DR.billZ

    DR.billZ C level Member
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    Thanks. I just made a short tool with which I can adjust the fuel screw at will.

    Really, though, once you turn it out one more turn from stock, it's pretty much fine for most all conditions.

    I, too, go to Colorado once a year. I run pretty much stock jetting...142 Main, but leave everything else the way I have it for home (~400ft.). It runs just fine out there with that.
     
  9. Noppy

    Noppy C level Member

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    Buy yourselves a 41mm Edelbrock which is adjustable on the outside all the way!

    I have to install mine but are waiting for the first Dyno test bank session to measure the current horse power. That way I can report back to you guys what horse power increase it gained from the new carb.

    See http://www.edelbrock.com/motorcycle/carbs_offroad.html for the specs!

    CU,

    Noppy
     
  10. obrianmcc

    obrianmcc C level Member

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    3000+ miles on my E with zero problems......not sure which carb the 2000's had, but if they're graced with a FCR your good to go, just uncork and rejet....word is Edelbrocks are crap....
     
  11. duggie

    duggie C level Member

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    jimbo, saw your jetting reply and i was hoping to get more detail-my needle is set at 5th position w/136 main- 1 turn out on the mix screw and the snorkle is off -w fmf power bomb pipe- the bike run poorly at mid range-high- cant seem to get it corrected ???? duggie
     

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